24.1.10

Cemetary, my dear Watson

Gloomy, rainy Edinburgh Saturdays may not be the most inspiring to go around and discover the town, but, already lagging far behind in my exploratory project, there was no way I was going to let this deter me from doing some sort of wandering about. In keeping with the mood of the day, I decided to pay a visit to one or two cemetaries in the neighbourhood. In Paris, walking through Cimetière du Montparnasse on my way to Sorbonne was both inspiring and a pleasant treat of silence, calm and order for a few minutes most days. It became a source for writing, for observations, and for grand thoughts about the world, the human being and about existence, quite similar to what I imagined some of the famous occupants, Sartre, de Beauvoir, Tzara and Beckett to mention a few, had pondered over in their golden days. Or so I liked to believe.

Comely Bank Cemetery has much less of this grandeur, and significantly less of the calm, silence and order too. Many graves are half-littered and in a state of forgotten decay, several tombstones fallen or pushed over, the walkways muddy, wet and badly kept, and fallen leaves from many months ago are rotting on the final resting place of many. It had taken me some time to find the cemetary, first getting lost in the grounds of the hospital next door - the practicality of hospitals and graveyards in a half morbid attempt to make the world more efficient always strikes me as a bit odd. While it may be handy for the transport, I wonder if patients like to be reminded of their mortality when they lay in their beds hoping for quick recovery? Or if proud parents of newborn babies appreciate the symbolism in that the starting point for their offspring is conveniently close to the end of the lap? Or even if those who visit their recently deceased think about the days that they may have spent worrying within the walls of that building, hoping that they wouldn't have to walk across the road? But I digress.

While the graveyard in itself was a particularly bad example of the sort, the individual graves were interesting enough, and provided enough food for thought. They did allow me to draw some hasty conclusions about different traditions, beliefs and common practices across different cultures. The way we present and remember our dead can say a lot about the living. Norwegian custom dictates that the person in the grave - usually just the one in each - is presented with a name, birth name is appropriate, date of birth, date of death and possibly a short saying or epitaph from the family. Years ago, it was common to list occupations if they were from a particular outstanding layer of society, but this has all but gone. The headstones are generally sober and simple, while recent years have seen an increase in embedded photos and signatures rather than 'printed' names. I suppose this serves to make the grave a more personal place, and brings the deceased closer to the surviving. Even so, I would be loath to sign my own tombstone, kind of like signing off for receiving a package.

Irish graves are more lavish, and commonly decorated with Celtic crosses, symbols and carvings. The headstones are taller, bigger and more imposing. Many have several family members in the same grave, all listed on the headstone - which makes it a requirement to invest in a large stone if you have a large family. The deceased are introduced with full name (née if they were married women), often with a loving "prefix", like 'Our much adored mother Mary O'Callahan (née Dunne)'. Date of death is then listed, with the age of the person rather than their date of birth. I have often wondered what this signifies, but it does make it more striking when you see the particularly young or particularly old presented with an age rather than with dates. Another Irish tradition is to mention placenames, which may very well be linked to the fact that many emigrated, many have moved away from their family and their roots, and for the surviving family it may be important to reconnect. Thus, birth place and place of death is also often mentioned: 'In loving memory of Eoin Hayes of Mohill, who died in New York March 31st 1997, aged 58'.

In Comely Bank Cemetary, some of the stones bore the same Celtic symbolism and inscription, while others seemed more of the tradition of simplicity. Again, mention of the age when deceased, rather than date of birth was more common, and members of a family tend to be buried together. This poses some interesting hierarchical challenges, when members of the extended family die in unparticular orders: In memory of John McMullan, also his second son Charles, his wife Catherine (if this was Charles' wife rather than John's, an indent is often used to signify this), also his youngest son Alistair, also his third daughter Shona, his wife Miriam (this could well be John's second wife), also their eldest son Martin (John's eldest with Miriam rather than with Catherine)' and so on. One particularly striking feature as such was the amount of information and text engraved on each stone. Following the family tree as it branches out, and in some cases where most members are presented with a quality (very special, much loved, always caring), a profession and even an education degree: 'Marjorie Simmons BA (hons), née Urquhart'. No wonder several of the stones were toppled over; the stonemasons are too busy carving letters, and have no time left over to re-erect fallen headstones.


No matter what they look like, the grave always tells some story of the people it is in memory of. As with the family of three, where the son, Alexander, died at the age of 11 1/2, and his parents never got another child. That half year must have been of such significance, and you can practically hear the yearning for just one more day from the sobering grave. And for the big family, where some died young, some died old, and the mother of them all is all the way at the bottom, the only one without an age. You never ask a lady her age, even in death. Or what about the 24 year old who is remembered by his family and friends with an engraving of a dart board and a hopeful message that they will meet again over the rainbow. Many sad stories, but many happy memories, is the true context of any graveyard. And on a dark and drizzly day, it is a wonderful place to walk around to get to know some of those who lived before.

14.1.10

The world is bigger than Scotland

Bus etickette

Queue nicely in bus stops that are designed like narrow tunnel systems with openings straight onto the road, with free sidewalks behind them. Let any exiting passengers get off in a timely fashion before you move onto the bus. Give correct money to the money hole by the bus driver, who won't give you anything back should you not have exact change. If you're not having a single ticket, you should say something. Otherwise, there is no need to talk to the person behind the glass. If you do talk, remember to say please, thank you!

Take ticket, printed from somewhere near you - it can come out in several places, keep your eyes peeled. Move towards some free seat, but not any of the priority ones. They are, according to the drawings, for people with walking sticks, children, a broken leg or similar afflictions. While moving through the bus, pretend to know what you are doing, show no fear. If you're really in the know, pick up a Metro. When getting closer to your destination, start preparing to leave. As soon as the bus leaves the stop before yours, get up, ring the stopper and move to the front of the bus, ready to get off. Try to remain standing while the bus starts and stops in traffic, and try to avoid swinging your bag in somebody's face or someone else's Metro as the bus turns a corner at high speed. When leaving the bus, make sure you thank the driver for getting you semi-safely to your destination. If you don't thank them, they are likely to drive past you next time you try to get on a bus. Actually, they may do that regardless. Or it could be that there is a secret sign to identify you as a potential passenger, not just somebody hanging out in an orderly queue at a bus stop. I just haven't found it yet, so buses tend to drive past from time to time.

During the two and a half years I lived in Dublin, I took the normal bus once, under friendly supervision. (I also bussed from Donegal to Belfast, and took the Aircoach several times. None of these count, you can just pretend to be a tourist, and there is no pressure to know any bus tickets or etiquettes.) The frightening circumstances of not knowing the many unwritten rules, with a total inability to decipher the bus routes and thus only being able to guess what bus would show up when and go where, proved too much for me. In Scotland necessity has proved to be a competent teacher, and as a public service to all of you: they are no longer unwritten rules, you can read them above and get on the public transport with no fear. (Unless you fear falling over on slippy floors after fast bus breaking - this is still a risk you have to live with, and happened to a poor woman on my bus only this morning.)

Oh, and the current adult ticket price is £1.20 for a single journey, £3.00 for a day ticket and you can get Ridacards for £15-£540 (from a week to a year).

Have a safe trip!

13.1.10

Fluid electricity

Ever since I moved to the great foreign lands of abroad, away from comforts and habits at home, some things have held particular fascination for me. One I've described the magic of before is self service checkout (still to this day a thrilling experience!), and now the time has come to marvel over leaking electricity. This is a concept that as far as I can grasp is only a problem in these islands, and may stem from the fact that the power produced here is a particularly flighty form of coal power. Or maybe it is just that they don't trust this new-fangled business of light and heating directly from the wall.

In any case, the fact that Irish and British people apparently think that electricity will steadily drip out of the sockets and add up on the monthly bills unless they turn it off at the root, is a continuous source of wonderment. So they have installed switched sockets, everywhere. I mean everywhere. Keep calm and carry on, lie back and think of England, and remember to turn off the socket switch. In one simple motion, no power will find it's way through to your heater or your TV or your bedside lamp. And no nasty leaks, you will want to make sure that the electricity company fat cats don't get hold of your hard earned money, for power you didn't even use. So the socket switch is ubiquitous. They come in all shapes and colours, and are often joined by fused plugs (in case the leaking electricity proves too much for the appliance, just blow the fuse in the plug so that you don't have to replace the whole thing. Pure genious!).

But laugh as I may, and with a slight condescending nod of the head I may look at these paranoid creatures and their primitive ideas of fluid electricity, it now seems more and more that the idea is actually very good. No pulling out plugs left, right and centre before going on holiday, to ensure that your telly doesn't blow up in case there is a storm while you are gone (people still do that, right?). Just do a round of switch-switching, and you can leave the cables in there as much as you want. No more dragging the fridge out in the middle of the floor to turn it off when you decide to go au naturel for a week (OK, nobody does that!). No need to haul out a whole freezer to get to the wiring in the back to defrost, all you need is to switch off that handy, external socket on the wall, and poof! Electricity be gone. I'm amazed, not at the idea of leaking power (you don't need to turn the switch off when there is nothing in the socket. You just don't.), but at the practical nature of this genious device that maybe we should export further, to an electricity-poor Norway in wintertime, for instance. Turn off the driveway heater with the turn of a switch!

As my friend the Wichita Lineman Glen Campbell would say: Such are the dreams of the everyday housewife. But switched sockets, not just a dream.

5.1.10

Back home

After a long stay in Norway, which was fantastic, relaxing, enjoyable and beautiful, I do love being back in Scotland, back in the world that I now call home. The Anglo-Celtic (?) culture and tradition is sometimes wonderfully strange to me, but also more and more my own and my home.

Flying in over Aberdeen (in a charming Widerøe Dash 8 100 propeller, which gives you a feeling of proximity to your environment that is hard to get in bigger jet engine planes, and which is particularly suited to coming home somewhere), watching brick houses with long back yards and clotheslines, little high streets, open fields and granite, organised in a charming, haphazard way that Norway's ramshackle but sorted settlements will probably never be. On the other hand, even if the towns are plotted out nicely and ordered, there is a lot less structure and stricture there, unlike the cultured neighbours in a fjord-ridden country further west. What Norwegians cherish in being out in the wilderness, about being in a primitive cottage without electricity and water to relax, with getting away from it all: the freedom and naturalism, is maybe what they banish from everyday life, from homes and cities, where rules, etiquette and expectations are often the orders of the day. On the other hand, in Ireland especially, and in Scotland, at least outside of Edinburgh, the people and the world are less formal, taking yourself seriously is less important, breaking the rules is more fun than keeping them, and the attitude is that "it'll be fine!" - particularly when it probably won't.

A striking example of this is the attitude to snow, which for many parts of the UK is a pressing concern these days. Norway has -23 degrees and a heavy layer of snow in the rainiest city, but the buses run on time, the plough cars are out before dawn (which to be honest is easy to do, as dawn is about 2 o'clock in winter...) and no schools stay closed just because the layer of snow is taller than the kids. The education will be administered, the roads will be cleared, everyone wears practical puffa jackets and sturdy winter boots, and there is no nonsense about this. Over here, people expect 'snow days' when the weather forecast shows 0 degrees celcius, expecting to get a day off work because it's too hard to get there in 10 cm powder. The trains collapse, the heating doesn't work, the council runs out of grit, salt and gas, but are we worried? Nah, it'll be fine! In Yorkshire, people and sheep huddle together in the pub, in North East Scotland they find alternative solutions for Christmas dinner, and in Aberdeen the taxi drivers claim ardently that it's only 'down sooth' that they can't handle the weather. It'll be fine up here!

And you can't but love it. It also helps having the Norwegian sensible winter wear culture - layers and boots really do help...

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